Meaning “colour” in Japanese, Aya not only offers traditional dishes but also those with a contemporary touch, such as grilled sardines served with a tomato, basil, and plum paste sauce or snapper salad drizzled with a shallot vinaigrette with grilled asparagus. Aya's stylish, striking décor features etched glass partitions around cosy booth seating, tatami rooms and a teppanyaki area at the rear.

Manager Gary Khoo is professional and friendly, having spent 23 years in hospitality, working at such establishments as Petit Choux, Rockman's Regency and Windows on the Bay.

Chef Kenichi Okumura has worked in France and Italy and also conducts cooking classes monthly on Wednesdays ($45, including a four-course meal).

Start with an oyster shooter ($5) soaked with sake and mirin and do order an exquisite sushi and sashimi platter. The mixed platter is picturesque and showcases the freshest salmon, tuna, garfish, prawns, sushi, oysters and avocado rolls, presented on a stylish lacquer tray with accompaniments of wasabi and pickled ginger.

The main course of beef teriyaki ($23.80) and kawara-yaki (seafood, beef and vegetables) were served on stylish curved hot plates atop stir fried vegetables with a side of potato wedges.

Desserts ($4.50) are attractively displayed and do try the green tea tiramisu, the Japanese version of the Italian classic. Book now for year-end functions. You can also find Aya at the Gaslight Victoria Market night market, starting in November.

Source: Stonnington Leader, October 25 th , 2004