Aya is the Japanese restaurant you want in your own suburb. The long room, with its slate floor, rice paper shades and booths divided by etched glass, is invitingly comfortable, with enough colour and movement supplied by the sushi bar and teppan table down the back.

The menu also accommodates by taking a wide-ranging approach without stinting on quality ingredients or careful presentation. All the Japanese favourites are here – sushi and sashimi, tempura and gyoza – and they are done well, with fish fresh and firm and tempura batter light and crisp. Aya's specials list is always worth checking out. You might get yellowfin tuna served four ways: as sashimi, nigiri sushi, in a spicy rice coated roll, and a carpaccio-like seared version with oil and red onion.

Another special, Furano salmon, comes rich and sweet in a marinade of miso and lavender. All the dishes on the main menu – including the brilliant technicolour tsukemono (Japanese pickles) – have a suggested Australian wine match, and there's a good range of sake and Japanese beer for those who want to keep it more traditional.

Source: The Age Good Food Guide 2005