In a city that offers many standard Japanese restaurants, it's a joy to report that this eastern suburbs pleaser seeks to rise above the pack. The menu features everything from sashimi to shabu shabu (a mix that doesn't happen in Japan ), so rest assured that your favourite dish will be there. But wait, there's more. Modern touches abound and there are enough specials to keep things interesting.

Seaweed rolls may combine salmon with basil and tomato, and a salad of King Island crabmeat could come with a thousand island-style dressing on mesclun. Traditional dishes arrive on soulful ceramics, served with customary generosity – tempura is a well-cooked mound of seafood and vegetables, and the sukiyaki is recommended enthusiastically by regulars.

The sushi bar, which runs along one side of the long, cheery dining room, turns out impeccable creations, including spicy salmon hosomaki (seaweed layered rolls) and a seared salmon sushi. The wine list has been chosen to complement the food, there's a generous selection of sakes, and tatami rooms are available for large parties.